Kedrodasos is just 1–2 km east of Elafonisi, yet most people who go to Elafonisi never see it. A white-sand beach with turquoise water and, behind it, a forest of twisted juniper trees growing right down onto the dunes. (The name means “cedar forest”, but the trees are junipers.) There is nothing here: no sunbeds, no taverna, no toilets. It is a protected Natura 2000 area. You bring everything and take everything back.
| From Chania | About 75 km, 1.5–2 hours via Topolia and Elos |
|---|---|
| Access | Dirt road, then a 10–15 min walk down a sandy-rocky path |
| Facilities | None at all |
| Shade | Natural, under the junipers |
| Best for | Quiet, nature, snorkelling, combining with Elafonisi |
| Lifeguard | No |
What It Is Like
The main beach is a few hundred metres long, with several smaller coves beyond it that you can reach by following the E4 markers east. The water is very clear, with sandy sections that are shallow near shore and rocky ones that drop deeper and are better for snorkelling. On hot days, the junipers give real shade without paying for a sunbed. It never gets as crowded as Elafonisi; there are no tour buses.
What Recent Visitors Keep Saying
- “Elafonisi without the crowds.” The most common comment.
- “Bring everything”: water, food, shade. There is nothing to buy.
- “No toilets anywhere”, which matters on a long day.
- “Campers in the forest.” In summer some people camp long-term under the trees, and around their spots there is sometimes litter. The beach itself is usually cleaner.
Respect the trees: the junipers grow very slowly and have shallow roots. Do not tie hammocks to them, break branches or pitch tents on the roots, and stick to existing paths. Take all your rubbish away with you.
Kedrodasos and Elafonisi in One Day
The smart plan: Kedrodasos in the morning, while it is cool and quiet, then Elafonisi in the late afternoon, when the day-trip buses start leaving (the KTEL bus returns around 16:00). The light on the lagoon is better then, and there are far fewer people. In summer, cars are no longer allowed into the protected zone at Elafonisi, so use the designated parking.
Warning: In the afternoon the west wind can pick up and make the sea choppier than it looks from above. There is no lifeguard, so check conditions on the beach before letting children swim.
Getting There
Take the national road west towards Kissamos, then turn south for Topolia, Elos and Elafonisi. After Chrysoskalitissa Monastery, about 1.5 km before Elafonisi, a dirt road on the left leads to a parking area. From there it is a 10–15 minute walk down. The dirt section is short, but rental insurance usually does not cover unpaved roads, so drive slowly or park on the asphalt and walk. Without a car: the summer KTEL bus to Elafonisi, then a walk east along the E4 (about 20–30 minutes).
Where to Stay Nearby
There are a few places to stay around Elafonisi and Chrysoskalitissa, and staying overnight means you can be on the beach at 8:00. Otherwise, Kissamos is the nearest larger base.
Before You Go
- At least 2 litres of water per person and a full picnic.
- Shoes with grip for the path.
- A beach umbrella if you will not find a spot under the trees.
- Snorkelling mask: there is nothing to rent.
- Cash and fuel before you leave Kissamos or Elos.
FAQ
Is it OK for children?
For older children, yes, in the sandy shallow parts. The walk down, the lack of toilets and no lifeguard make it harder with toddlers; Elafonisi suits them better.
Is it a naturist beach?
Not officially, but some people are nude, mostly at the eastern end. Nobody makes a fuss either way.
Combine With
- Elafonisi: 1–2 km away.
- Chrysoskalitissa Monastery: on the same road, with views over the sea.
- Topolia Gorge and the cave of Agia Sofia: on the way back.
- Krios: the E4 continues east from Kedrodasos to Krios (about 3 hours on foot).
Local tip: On the way back through Topolia gorge in the late afternoon, take it slowly, with the windows down: the cliffs are golden and the air smells of thyme.
