Vamos is the main village of Apokoronas, 300 metres up among olive groves, with the White Mountains behind and the sea in the distance. People live here all year: there is a bakery, a pharmacy, an ATM, a health centre and a petrol station. In July, when Kalyves and Almyrida are full, Vamos is calm. It is officially protected as a traditional settlement, and since the 1990s many old stone houses have been restored as guesthouses, which made Vamos one of the first examples of village tourism in Crete.
| From Chania | About 25 km, 30–40 minutes |
|---|---|
| Nearest beaches | Kalyves ~6 km, Almyrida ~8 km |
| Services | Bakery, mini-market, pharmacy, ATM, petrol, health centre |
| Parking | Free on the streets |
| Best for | Village atmosphere, food, a base away from the resorts |
| Best season | All year; spring and autumn for walking |
A Short History
Local tradition says the name comes from the Spanish “vamos” (let’s go), linked to the Arabs who came to Crete from Spain in the 9th century. It is a nice story, though not proven. The village appears in the Venetian census of 1573. In the late Ottoman period it became an administrative centre, which is why you see neoclassical mansions that look too grand for a village. It was also a centre of the revolts against Ottoman rule.
Local tip: Most day visitors stop at the main square and leave. Cross the road and walk uphill into the old neighbourhood: stone streets, arched doorways and restored houses, 10 minutes on foot.
What to Do
- Walk the old quarter and look for the two kinds of traditional house: the simple one-room stone kamarospita and the bigger mansions of wealthier families.
- Eat. People drive from Chania and Rethymno for the village tavernas: slow-cooked lamb, wild greens, local cheese. Ask locally which one is best that week.
- Cooking class or producer visit. In season, local hosts offer Cretan cooking classes and visits to olive oil, wine and cheese producers. Book before you arrive in summer; they fill up.
- Summer festival. In July, Vamos and nearby Gavalochori host concerts, including jazz, at the village amphitheatre. Dates change every year.
- Agios Georgios Monastery at Karydi (about 2 km east): restored after years of abandonment, with a huge old olive press building with arches. Check opening hours before you drive.
The Apokoronas Village Loop
A 28 km paved loop: Vamos – Kefalas – Kokkino Chorio – Gavalochori – Douliana – back to Vamos. Old churches, stone houses, schools from another century, and views over Souda Bay and the White Mountains. Do it on a weekday morning with no fixed plan and stop wherever looks interesting. Visit the folklore museum in Gavalochori, then come back to Vamos for lunch.
Getting There
By car, take the national road east towards Rethymno and exit for Vamos; it is easy and well signposted. KTEL buses run, but not often, so check e-ktel.com. There is no Uber or Bolt; if you go by taxi, book the return.
Where to Stay in Vamos
Restored stone houses and small guesthouses in the hills, 15 minutes from the beaches. Ideal if you want village life first and the beach second.
FAQ
Is Vamos worth a visit?
Yes, if you want to see Crete beyond the beach and the old town. Do not expect a dramatic landmark; its value is the atmosphere, the food and the people.
How long do I need?
2–3 hours for a walk and lunch. A full day if you add the village loop and the beach.
Combine With
- Gavalochori: folklore museum and lace (kopaneli).
- Douliana: a tiny, quiet traditional village 2 km away.
- Kalyves and Almyrida: the nearest beaches.
- Apokoronas guide: the whole region.
Local tip: Late September is perfect: the air is cooler, the sun still warm, the bougainvillea still pink, and the tavernas have time to talk.
